Phytochemicals, Antioxidant Activity, Anti-tyrosinase Activity of Herbal Extracts, and the Development of Skin Care Lotion from Gooseberry (Phyllanthus emblica L.) Extract
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Abstract
This research aimed to develop a skin care lotion product from Thai herbal extracts with tyrosinase‑inhibiting and antioxidant properties. Ten herbs, Moringa oleifera, Clitoria ternatea, Nelumbo nucifera, Morus alba, Daucus carota, Cucurbita moschata, Terminalia chebula, Centella asiatica, Raphanus sativus and Phyllanthus emblica, were macerated in 95 % ethanol. All extracts were analyzed for phytochemical contents, antioxidant capacity, and tyrosinase inhibition. The result showed that total phenolic content was highest in Terminalia chebula extract reaching 12,083.08 ± 232.18 mg gallic acid equivalents per 100 mg extract. Clitoria ternatea extract showed the greatest total flavonoid content at 3,397.07 ± 41.01 mg quercetin equivalents per 100 mg extract. Terminalia chebula extract exhibited the strongest DPPH radical‑scavenging activity with an IC50 of 10.23 ± 0.63 µg/ml. However, Phyllanthus emblica extract provided the highest antioxidant activity in the ABTS and FRAP assays, with IC50 values of 41.426 ± 13.485 mM/mg and 27.44 ± 2.05 mM Fe2+/mg, respectively. In the Dopachrome tyrosinase‑inhibition assay, Morus alba extract was the most potent inhibitor with an IC50 of 123.82 ± 4.67 µg/ml, followed by Phyllanthus emblica extract with an IC50 of 226.63 ± 13.74 µg/ml. Therefore, Phyllanthus emblica was chosen to develop as a skin care lotion product. A lotion formulated with Phyllanthus emblica extract (MKP) was compared with a control lotion (C) and a kojic‑acid lotion (KJ) through seven heating–cooling cycles to evaluate physical and chemical stability. It was found that the MKP and KJ lotion formulations exhibited higher antioxidant activity and tyrosinase inhibition than the control formulation (C). The lotion containing Phyllanthus emblica extract showed the highest antioxidant activity, whereas the lotion containing kojic acid demonstrated greater tyrosinase inhibitory activity than the formulation with Phyllanthus emblica extract.
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